The parts are all here and I’m hoping I didn’t miss anything.\u00a0 I’ll know soon enough, so time to dig in and get this bike ready to go.<\/p>\n
First things first, let’s get the DI2 shifting set up.\u00a0 The battery fits into the lower hollow part of the seatpost, so it comes out with the saddle\/seatpost.\u00a0 Easy enough to replace, and the BT module plugs in at the same time.\u00a0 Installing the new seatpost just required the seatpost clamp to be installed first, then the battery into the seatpost.\u00a0 A little carbon assembly past and it’s in place, in approximately the right position.\u00a0 After some measurements and adjustments, the saddle is properly position fore and aft, and the correct seatpost height is set.\u00a0 Snugged it down, but not too tight, since we still have to test the shifting.<\/p>\n
I connected the charger to the “A” junction box under the stem, and let it charge for a couple of hours, per the directions.\u00a0 Once that was complete, I plugged the charger\/programming cable into my laptop and started the Shimano E-Tube software.\u00a0 It connected to the system and told me that there were software updates available.\u00a0 I updated the charger first, having read that this step should be performed first, and without updating any other parts of the system.<\/p>\n
Now that the charger is updated, I reconnected to the laptop and ran through the remaining software updates.\u00a0 Once complete, I checked that the installed components were recognized and enabled the “Synchro-Shift” option.\u00a0 This option automatically shifts the FD (the chainrings) depending on the chain position on the cassette and the direction of the shift.\u00a0 All you need to do is to shift the RD (cassette) up or down as needed and the system will shift the FD (chainrings) as needed.<\/p>\n
The first problem – the RD would not shift to the smallest cog on the cassette (the 11 tooth cog).\u00a0 I could not figure out what was wrong, all other shifts were fine, the low limit screw was properly set, and the high limit screw was backed almost completely out.\u00a0 I kept thinking it over and figured out the problem.\u00a0 Shimano has you shift approximately to the middle of the cassette, and then enable “micro-adjust” mode so you can fine-tune the left-right position of the RD.\u00a0 The position had been adjusted to the left one complete cog’s worth, effectively eliminating the smallest cog position.\u00a0 Once I figured this out, it took less than 5 minutes to have the system shifting perfectly up and down all 11 cogs on the cassette.\u00a0 Watching the synchro shift mode change the FD as you shift the RD was actually pretty cool.<\/p>\n
There are two buttons on the shifters, at the top of each shifter.\u00a0 You can program the buttons to several different functions.\u00a0 I chose to program the right button to shift the RD down (towards the largest cog) and the left button to shift the RD up (towards the smallest cog).\u00a0 That’s working properly and the DI2 system is ready to go.<\/p>\n
Next, on to the remaining upgrades.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
The parts are all here and I’m hoping I didn’t miss anything.\u00a0 I’ll know soon enough, so time to dig in and get this bike ready to go. First things first, let’s get the DI2 shifting set up.\u00a0 The battery fits into the lower hollow part of the seatpost, so it comes out with the … <\/p>\n