{"id":2117,"date":"2022-02-13T10:43:43","date_gmt":"2022-02-13T16:43:43","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.dalemorin.com\/?p=2117"},"modified":"2022-03-03T07:30:36","modified_gmt":"2022-03-03T13:30:36","slug":"focus-mares-part-4a","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.dalemorin.com\/?p=2117","title":{"rendered":"Focus Mares, part 4a"},"content":{"rendered":"

Getting close to the finish line is upping the anticipation for the maiden voyage.<\/p>\n

Two things remain – Installing the Hope RX4 calipers and new brake hose, and finishing up the drivetrain.<\/p>\n

The BB seemed a little rough when I installed the crankset and set the preload, so I decided to replace the BB.\u00a0 I chose the Wheels Mfg PF30-Shimano BB.<\/p>\n

Removing the RaceFace BB was fairly simple.\u00a0 I didn’t have the bike-specific removal tool, so I improvised with a 3\/8 socket extension and a ball peen hammer.\u00a0 A few taps at a time, working my way around the cup and the NDS cup came out.\u00a0 Same for the DS cup.\u00a0 The BB had quite a lot of dirt in it so I cleaned that out.\u00a0 The missing grommet for the FD DI2 wire gets the blame for the dirt in the BB.\u00a0 I definitely need to get grommets to seal up the DI2 wires and their openings in the frame.<\/p>\n

Installing the Wheels Mfg BB was pretty straightforward.\u00a0 I used Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease on the threads, cups, and the first half inch or so of the BB shell.\u00a0 The DS cup pushed in without tools, and the threads that join the NDS and DS cups mated up easily.\u00a0 I have wrenches for the BB, a flat one and a 3\/8 drive tool that works with a torque wrench to complete the installation.\u00a0 I torqued the BB to 45nm, and that’s the BB replaced.<\/p>\n

Then I reinstalled the crankset and bearing seals, and set the preload.\u00a0 Bearings are very smooth, much better than the old BB.\u00a0 Now that the crankset is installed, I can mount the FD and plug it in.\u00a0 The new, full length chain went on next, and I left it at full length for now.<\/p>\n

Testing the shifting is next.\u00a0 I activated the synchro-shift mode, and set up the RD first, using the adjustment mode to line the jockey wheels up properly under the cassette cogs.\u00a0 I set the hi and low limit screws and that’s all the RD needs.\u00a0 The FD is pretty much the same.\u00a0 There was more extra links than I expected, so I shortened the chain to big-big plus two rivets.\u00a0 Shifting up and down is working well.<\/p>\n

I’m trying a new chain lube. Tru Tension All Weather lube<\/a>.\u00a0 It’s wax based and contains tungsten disulfide.\u00a0 Reviews were positive and if it works for me I’m hoping to eliminate the chainring tattoos I seem to get with regularity.<\/p>\n

I soaked the chain in mineral spirits to remove the factory oil, then blew it out with compressed air.\u00a0 Installed the chain dry, and applied the lube.\u00a0 It dries to the touch in a few minutes, and is not sticky or oily once it dries.\u00a0 I’ll follow up after a few rides to let you know how it’s working.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Getting close to the finish line is upping the anticipation for the maiden voyage. Two things remain – Installing the Hope RX4 calipers and new brake hose, and finishing up the drivetrain. The BB seemed a little rough when I installed the crankset and set the preload, so I decided to replace the BB.\u00a0 I … <\/p>\n

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