The more complicated tasks are done now, so we’re on to the final few bits (and bobs, if you prefer the British lexicon) of the build.
NOTE: Self-fusing silicone tape is great. Sticks to itself but leaves no sticky residue like other tape. It doesn’t get slimy in summer heat. Definitely a good product to use on the handlebars.
Taped the cables to the handlebars using silicone tape in preparation for wrapping the bars. Wrapped the bars using the Lizardskin 3.2mm tape. Looks good, has a good amount of padding so should be comfortable to ride. And to my surprise, there was actually a few inches left over. It seems like other bar tape has been just barely long enough. Inserted the plugs and that’s done.
Marked the top on the steerer – need to cut 8mm above the mark. Removed the front wheel and brake from the fork, and then the fork came off. Over to the bike shop to have the steerer cut. They reset the crown race, it wasn’t fully seated. Picked up a 10mm spacer since the extra spacers I have are for a 1” steerer. I’m leaving some extra steerer length until the handlebar fit is dialed in, then I’ll cut it to the final length. No hurry on that task.
Checked the torque on the brake calipers, the derailleurs, the seatpost and saddle clamps, and made sure the shifting is still dialed in. All good. Now just need some decent weather for a maiden voyage and some photos.
Remember, without photos it didn’t happen.
Usually, descending follows climbing, more as a reward for the work of climbing as anything else. Used the old BB guide and cut the new Campagnolo BB guide to fit, installed the cable guide, cable liner, and the cable runs are clean. Cut the front derailleur housing (the only housing for the front derailleur), and installed it. Cut the front piece of housing for the rear derailleur and installed it. Checked to be sure the housing looks good at lock to lock turns, and it’s good. Cut the second piece for the rear derailleur. Shift housing is cut to length, lubed, and installed – cables are run. Need to set the low limit screws and fasten the cables to the derailleurs. Then the chain, then adjust the derailleurs.
Clamped the rear derailleur cable and adjusted the high limit by eyeing the jockey wheels and the small cog – close enough for a start. The low limit can’t be adjusted until I put the chain on, so that the derailleur can be properly spaced away from the large cog using the B screw. Installed the chain, which needed to be shortened by one link. This was because the new crankset is a 50/34 compact and the old one was 52/39.
The front derailleur does not shift up or down. Will have to pull the cable out and see if I can figure out the problem. Until I can shift to the big chainring, I cannot finish the rear derailleur adjustments. FIGURED IT OUT! There are two holes for the cable in the shifter body, and I had the cable in the wrong one. Once I fixed that the front derailleur shifted fine. Now I can work on the rear derailleur adjustments.
Was having trouble getting the rear derailleur to shift onto the big cog, so I suspected the derailleur hanger wasn’t straight. Sure enough, it wasn’t, so I adjusted that and then the rear shifting was easy to adjust. Installed the pedals, and crimped caps on the cut cable ends.
Now we can change gears for climbing and descending, which is a plus.
Now to finish up the build…
Moved the handlebars with the brifters installed, and then removed the old bar tape and cables. Cleaned the old adhesive off the handlebars.
Decided to run the brake cables first. Replaced the cables, then the housings. Next is to cut the housing to length, after taping the housing in place on the handlebar. Remembered to pull hard on the brake levers to be sure the housing is fully seated in the brifters before marking the length and cutting.
Cut the housing and installed the front brake housing and cable. The front pads were properly aligned so no changes needed there. Cut the front housing for the rear brake cable and installed it. Got the rear brake cable and housing done and the brake pads and caliper adjusted. Used tri-flow to lubricate the cables.
Now on to the shifter cabling…