The more complicated tasks are done now, so we’re on to the final few bits (and bobs, if you prefer the British lexicon) of the build.
NOTE: Self-fusing silicone tape is great. Sticks to itself but leaves no sticky residue like other tape. It doesn’t get slimy in summer heat. Definitely a good product to use on the handlebars.
Taped the cables to the handlebars using silicone tape in preparation for wrapping the bars. Wrapped the bars using the Lizardskin 3.2mm tape. Looks good, has a good amount of padding so should be comfortable to ride. And to my surprise, there was actually a few inches left over. It seems like other bar tape has been just barely long enough. Inserted the plugs and that’s done.
Marked the top on the steerer – need to cut 8mm above the mark. Removed the front wheel and brake from the fork, and then the fork came off. Over to the bike shop to have the steerer cut. They reset the crown race, it wasn’t fully seated. Picked up a 10mm spacer since the spacers I have are for a 1” steerer. I’m leaving some extra steerer length until the handlebar fit is dialed in, then I’ll cut it to the final length. No hurry on that task.
Checked the torque on the brake calipers, the derailleurs, the seatpost and saddle clamps, and made sure the shifting is still dialed in. All good. Now just need some decent weather for a maiden voyage and some photos.
Usually, descending follows climbing, more as a reward for the work of climbing as anything else. Used the old BB guide and cut the new Campagnolo BB guide to fit, installed the cable guide, cable liner, and the cable runs are clean. Cut the front derailleur housing (the only housing for the front derailleur), and installed it. Cut the front piece of housing for the rear derailleur and installed it. Checked to be sure the housing looks good at lock to lock turns, and it’s good. Cut the second piece for the rear derailleur. Shift housing is cut to length, lubed, and installed – cables are run. Need to set the low limit screws and fasten the cables to the derailleurs. Then the chain, then adjust the derailleurs.
Clamped the rear derailleur cable and adjusted the high limit by eyeing the jockey wheels and the small cog – close enough for a start. The low limit can’t be adjusted until I put the chain on, so that the derailleur can be properly spaced away from the large cog using the B screw. Installed the chain, which needed to be shortened by one link. This was because the new crankset is a 50/34 compact and the old one was 52/39.
The front derailleur does not shift up or down. Will have to pull the cable out and see if I can figure out the problem. Until I can shift to the big chainring, I cannot finish the rear derailleur adjustments. FIGURED IT OUT! There are two holes for the cable in the shifter body, and I had the cable in the wrong one. Once I fixed that the front derailleur shifted fine. Now I can work on the rear derailleur adjustments.
Was having trouble getting the rear derailleur to shift onto the big cog, so I suspected the derailleur hanger wasn’t straight. Sure enough, it wasn’t, so I adjusted that and then the rear shifting was easy to adjust. Installed the pedals, and crimped caps on the cut cable ends.
Now we can change gears for climbing and descending, which is a plus.
Moved the handlebars with the brifters installed, and then removed the old bar tape and cables. Cleaned the old adhesive off the handlebars.
Decided to run the brake cables first. Replaced the cables, then the housings. Next is to cut the housing to length, after taping the housing in place on the handlebar. Remembered to pull hard on the brake levers to be sure the housing is fully seated in the brifters before marking the length and cutting.
Cut the housing and installed the front brake housing and cable. The front pads were properly aligned so no changes needed there. Cut the front housing for the rear brake cable and installed it. Got the rear brake cable and housing done and the brake pads and caliper adjusted. Used tri-flow to lubricate the cables.
I removed the brake calipers from the CAAD8 frame, but cannot mount them on the Merckx frame. The reason? The recessed nut used to attach the rear caliper isn’t long enough for the thicker brake bridge on the carbon frame. The one for the front caliper might work OK, but the rear one isn’t even close. I’ve ordered a couple of longer ones, so once they arrive I should be able to mount both brake calipers and then continue with the project.
I can turn the length down on the lathe if they’re too long, but hopefully they’ll just work out OK. Riiiightt… That always works for me.
UPDATE: The recessed nut for the rear caliper was about 4mm too long. Once that extra was removed, the calipers are now both installed and torqued.
Well, at least a new frame. I picked up an Eddy Merckx LXM carbon fiber frame a couple of years ago, and now i’m finally getting around to doing something with it. My plan is to swap the entire Campagnolo group from the CAAD8 frame to the Merckx frame, and along the way to replace the cables/housings, clean up everything, and replace the bar tape as well. I don’t need many parts for this, mostly consumables like cables and cable guide, plus bar tape. The existing stem may or may not work with this frame, that will have to wait until it’s actually rideable to make that determination.
Hiccup #1: The bottom bracket shell was English thread, but it appears to have been sleeved to that thread size since all information I could find indicated that it was originally Italian threading. Also, the shell width was too wide at 70.5mm. That has to be fixed, since the crankset requires a 68mm shell width. I wound up at Halcyon Bikes in Nashville, TN, and they took care of facing the shell down to 68mm, and while they had the frame they installed the BB cups and the carbon compact crankset (50/34). Now that this issue is handled, the rest should go fairly quickly as I have the other bits I need for the swap.
First is to move the brake calipers from the CAAD8 to the Merckx. next will be the front and rear derailleurs, but I need to take a photo of the cable routing so that I can properly set them up. next will be the handlebars/stem and I’ll probably leave the brifters mounted exactly where they are. Wheels are easy enough, and the cables/housings are next. Finally the seatpost and saddle, and it will be rideable. I will wait to wrap the bars until I have a few miles, to be sure that shifting and braking are correct before covering up the cables.
My first carbon bike – I’m really interested to see what differences I notice between the stiff alloy CAAD8 and the carbon Merckx. Time and some miles will tell the tale.
Every Day Carry. But when you work in a home office, it’s more like EDUAMD. Every Day Use at My Desk. I’ve been using several different capless, or retractable nib fountain pens in a daily rotation, and I’ve come to some conclusions as to the one I prefer and why. Some reasons you may agree with, some you may not. But if you’re on the fence, you may find some information that helps you to make your own buying decision.
The candidates are:
The Pilot Blue Carbonesque using Diamine Syrah ink is very nice, but definitely heavier and more substantial than the Decimo. The nib on this pen was custom ground by Indy Pen Dance to their Daily Italic profile, and I really like it. This is a one-hand pen just like the Decimo, the difference in weight is noticeable. The clip is larger than the Decimo, but I have no complaints about it and it doesn’t get in the way (for me) while writing. My writing seems to improve when using this pen – I’m not sure why that is, but it happens every time I use it.
I like the Decimo too, the thinner clip and lighter weight are a noticeable difference between this pen and the others. The medium nib is, well, medium and very smooth even on less than great paper. The black Pilot cartridge ink is fine and works fine on the paper I use daily. This is a one-hand pen – you can pick it up and extend the nib with one hand and it’s ready to write. Very convenient. I have had no issues with the nib drying out while in rotation.
The Pilot Fermo is about the same weight as the Blue Carbonesque, but feels a bit thinner. I have Diamine Imperial Purple ink in this pen right now. The clip has a different shape, and is not a detriment at all. I think I prefer the twist mechanism over the click mechanism in the other two Pilots. Smooth, and the spring retracts the nib by itself once you rotate past the over-center point. Visually the Fermo has a much smaller cap than the other Pilots, so it does have a different look. The weight is about the same as the Pilot Blue Carbonesque.
The Lamy Dialog 3 is unique. I’ve had it about 2 weeks now and the nib is really nice. Very smooth right out of the box. No complaints there. I think I would be happier with a fine nib rather than the medium. That’s not a fault of the pen or nib. I will probably have the nib ground to a fine point and then I will enjoy this pen even more. The ball valve rolling out of the way just prior to the nib extending is still fun to watch, but it is definitely a two-hand task to make the pen ready to write. It may look different with the untapered cylindrical profile, but it feels good in the hand and writing with it is a pleasure. I have had no issues with the nib drying out after sitting for 3 days in the four pen rotation.
So for me, the decision was a tough one – these are all quality pens and I can say without reservation that you would not regret purchasing any of them. The final two candidates were the Blue Carbonesque with that wonderful nib, and the Fermo with the twist mechanism. But, for the way I use a pen on a daily basis the Fermo wins. I could just put the Daily Italic nib in the Fermo and have the best of both, but I think I’ll leave the medium nib in there for now. For a daily writer the medium nib is a great compromise.
This may be a bit telling, but I have ordered another Fermo, in dark green color with a fine nib. Looks like the rotation will go up to 5 days fairly soon.
Stay tuned for a review of the Pilot Fermo with a fine nib.
I just received my Lamy Dialog 3 retractable fountain pen today and it’s quite nice in glossy piano black, with a gold and rhodium medium nib. The nib had some ink on it , but that was expected as Lamy dip tests their pens at the factory before shipping them.
I cleaned the nib and let the nib unit dry. I’ve decided (for now) to use Diamine ASA Blue ink in the Lamy, that may or may not be the case for the next fill. Can’t say just yet.
The mechanism is somewhat similar to the Pilot Vanishing Point Fermo, where the nib is extended for writing by twisting the top (bottom?) section of the pen clockwise. The “door” to seal the nib and prevent drying out is a ball valve style that rotates 90 degrees to expose or to close the nib section.
The design is minimalist, basically a cylinder with rounded ends, of a constant diameter. Here’s a photo.
The medium nib is quite smooth, literally gliding over the paper. I haven’t tried any downward pressure while writing, but others have reported the nib is flexible enough for some line variation to make it’s appearance.
One other thing i forgot to mention, the pocket clip. it can be an issue for you, depending on how you hold your pen while writing. This clip is, by design, less intrusive than the clip on the Pilot standard VP. The Lamy clip actually retracts into the barrel when the nib is extended to make it less of a bother, and then returns to it’s normal position when the nib is retracted. Just a refinement that does actually work to make the pen “fit” better.
The nib alone would probably cause this pen to be a “keeper”, but couple that with the retractable mechanism and the clean design, and it becomes a “double-secret” keeper. Animal House fans will get the reference.
Point fountain pen. Two, actually. The Decimo and the Fermo. The Decimo retains the click mechanism to extend the nib, and is a slightly slimmed-down version of the original Vanishing Point. There are other differences too, the Decimo is noticeably lighter in weight than the VP, and the pocket clip is reshaped, lying closer to the barrel, and slimmer in width. I don’t find the standard VP pocket clip to be an issue, so the smaller Decimo clip isn’t either. if the standard VP clip just didn’t work for you, give the Decimo a look – you might find that Pilot has made a retractable fountain pen for you. This photo shows the original VP and the Decimo – I’ll let you decide which is which based on my description. Hint – it’s not difficult to tell them apart.
The Fermo is more like the original VP, but there are differences here as well. Weight isn’t one of them, the Fermo and the original VP weigh almost exactly the same. The clip is reshaped, and is fastened directly to the barrel rather than to the extended cap of the standard VP. And the big difference, the mechanism for extending the nib in the Fermo is a twist, not a click. Twist the ribbed end of the pen clockwise, and the nib extends. Turn it counter-clockwise, and the nib retracts. Because the pen doesn’t get any shorter when you twist the section, the pen seems larger (and it actually is about a quarter of an inch longer with the nib extended). On the click VPs, the pen does get a little shorter because the clicker remains in the depressed position while the nib is extended.
All of the Pilot / Namiki Vanishing Point, Decimo, and Fermo models share the same same nib units and converters / ink cartridges. You can mix and match to your heart’s content.
A problem comes up from time to time – you just don’t want to write with ink. There is a really useful invention to solve this and it’s called a pencil. There are a staggering number of choices available. This might surprise you, but probably not – I like mechanical pencils.
I have a Pilot H1005 retractable mechanical pencil that, for some, is the holy grail of mechanical pencils. The current prices seem to bear this out, since it has long been discontinued. New or like-new examples sell for over $175, which seems a bit much, since it sold originally for around $15. But I must admit it is a good design and mine is still going strong after 30 years – has it really been that long?
I thought I would try another one, opting to leave the Pilot in the desk drawer. So I did some reading and found the Uni Kuru Toga which has a unique feature. As you write with it, the mechanism rotates the lead a few degrees each time you lift it from the paper, so the lead stays sharp. It’s a very fascinating thing to watch and it isn’t just a marketing gimmick – it actually works. The price – around $12.
Then I decided to pick up a Pentel Sharp Kerry. Not a new design but a very popular one. The cap covers the lead tube when it’s in your pocket, and you just remove it to write. If you decide to post the cap, the lead advance button on the cap will advance the lead without removing it. Not particularly fancy, just a good design that has been around for quite a while – with good reason. The price – around $18.
My next, and likely my last pencil purchase was a rOtring 800. This is rOtring’s top of the line pencil, with a retractable tip. The rOtring 600 is very popular and the primary difference between the 600 and the 800 is the 800’s retractable tip. It certainly makes it a safer EDC pencil, since it probably won’t impale you like the non-retractable 600 might. Made from brass, it has a nice feel to it and the balance seems neutral. This one will be with me for a long time, I’m thinking.
No, not the sometimes difficult search for the intent of a written article, but a unique type of fountain pen. One of the drawbacks to using a fountain pen is that the nib will transfer ink to whatever it touches, whether you like it or not. So most all fountain pens have caps to keep the ink from writing a blob on your shirt when you put the pen in your pocket.
But people being clever (some more than others) have designed a fountain pen that doesn’t need a cap – it’s called “Capless”. The company Namiki, which is now called “Pilot” has a retractable fountain pen called the Vanishing Point, or Capless, depending on the ad you’re reading. It has gone through a few iterations since it’s inception, and it is a high quality pen.
How it works is fairly simple. The nib and ink are a unit that fits inside the pen, very similar to the ink cartridge in a ballpoint pen. There is a button that pushes the nib unit out of the pen so that you can write with it. But fountain pen inks are not formulated like ballpoint pen inks, and if left exposed, the nib will dry out. So the very smart people at Namiki/Pilot designed a little door they call a shutter that is spring loaded to close when the nib is retracted to seal the nib and prevent it from drying out. Pretty smart, huh?
Well, it works. And it works very well. The nibs are made from 14k or 18k gold and are very well made, writing very smoothly. And like most fountain pens, you can have a nibmeister regrind the nib to your exact requirements. The only drawback to this design is that the mechanism takes up space inside the barrel, so the ink capacity isn’t great. They also accept ink cartridges, so you can carry an extra cartridge with you and replace an empty one in just a few seconds.
A unique solution to a problem. Here you can see the nib extended for writing.